By Peter Slingsby
Perhaps it's the high mountain air, the pine-shaded campsite, or the sense of isolation.
It's also one of those rare places where your dog is welcome - there aren't really any beavers.
Beaverlac is situated on Grootfontein farm. It's a working farm, with citrus orchards and olive groves, and you might like to visit it at orange blossom time. It's over the narrow and dramatic Dasklip Pass near Porterville, a favourite launching spot for paragliders.
The pass is tarred, but the track down into Beaverlac is not, and in wet weather sedan cars might have trouble. The track ends at the office and shop, where you'll pay for your campsite or cottage.
The campsite is in a small pine plantation - very shady, but the facilities are pretty minimalist. There's a detailed inset of Beaverlac on our map, "Cederberg", version 6, or you can download a free map of the farm from The Maps. There are several good hiking paths. One leads down the old 4x4 track to the Olifants River. It's about 5kms each way, and at the bottom of the hill the river provides good swimming and fly-fishing, but it's quite a long, hot trek home up a rise of about 200m.
The Dwars River Trail - which, like the Olifants Trail is also open to mountain bikers - is a longer but less-strenuous path that ends with a mighty view down into the Olifants River Canyon, and the amazingly rugged Koue Bokkeveld mountain wilderness across the river.
Both of these are worthwhile walks, but the real gem at Beaverlac - especially on a warm, sunny day - is the Leopard Trail. It's a relatively short 5km round trip, but, with its series of delightful pools in the Ratel River, you could spend most of the day on it.
The path starts from the campsite and, when you're through the gate, you could divert to the popular Main Pool. This might be a bad mistake, though - it's the kind of mountain pool, with flat rocks and a small waterfall, that might seduce you for hours. Above the waterfall is another wide, shallow pool just right for small children.
Avoid temptation and take the right-hand path that climbs up the rocky hillside at the side of the kloof. Admire the rich Winterhoek fynbos all around you, and watch carefully for the cairns that mark the rather faint path. Hats and sunscreen are a must, but don't worry too much about how hot it might be getting.
Less than a kilometre from the camp there's a left-hand diversion to the Grotto and Jacuzzi pools - the names surely explain themselves.
Back on the path, after a few hundred metres you reach an extraordinary rock that has been brilliantly named "Klip Art". If you're in digital denial you might not get the pun; the klip art itself is on the back of the rock, and it's easier to spot on your way down.
Beyond Klip Art the path climbs steadily, past Butt Crack, Flat Rock and the ominously-named Puff- adder Rock. Don't be alarmed - it's the snake-patterned lichens that have given the name, not some languid puffie. And just beyond Puffadder Rock you can divert again to the oddly-named Top Pool.
The name is odd because it's not really the top pool, but don't let that put you off jumping in for a quick dip. A slightly stiffer climb lies beyond the pool, but it will be worth it. About 500 metres ahead, beyond Castle Rock, stand the Totem Poles, impressive rock pillars with - you guessed - another beckoning swimming hole.
It's probably lunch time by now, and time for your sandwiches. The way home is back down the same path, visiting all those wonderful pools once again.
Back under the pines a warm evening around a crackly campfire awaits you.
If you'd rather explore the Winterhoek plateau you could return to the main road and follow it all the way to the gates of the Groot Winterhoek Wilderness Area. The views are spectacular and the countryside is magical.
There are more walks in the Cederberg described in our Walks with a Fat Dog - and more walks without. It's out there in the bookshops, but they're going fast!
Fact file: Beaverlac
Route: N7 to Piketberg; then R44 to Porterville - or take the N1 to Klapmuts, then the R44 via Wellington and Gouda to Porterville. Take the Citrusdal road from Porterville; after 3km turn right at the sign, "Cardouw". Follow this dirt road for 9km to the tarred right turn, "Dasklip". Turn left to Beaverlac at the summit of the Dasklip Pass.
Route maps: "Cederberg - the map", or "Day Drives from Cape Town".
Free trail map download: Yes, atThe Maps.
Distance from central Cape Town: 180km, 2 hrs 20 minutes.
Information: Phone Beaverlac, 022-931-2945 (no website; advance bookings are not taken for camping)
Places to eat: Strictly self-catering.
Places to stay: At Beaverlac; campsites and cottages.
Permits for trails: At the Beaverlac office/shop.
Dogs allowed: Yes, there are no beavers at Beaverlac.
Other attractions: Groot Winterhoek Wilderness Area is nearby.
A free full-colour map of Beaverlac can be downloaded from The Maps.
In addition, buy our new book Walks with a Fat Dog and maps from the same website.
- This article was originally published on page 10 of The Cape Argus on November 02, 2006
