We sat holding our breath on the banks of a dry river bed while a female leopard stalked a grey duiker.

She was so well camouflaged we would not have seen her but for the sharp eyes of Foreman Mathebula, our guide for the day.

Then she slipped out of the grass on to the sandy riverbed and proceeded to glide towards her prey.

Fortunately for the duiker, the leopard gave up the hunt then flopped down in the shade.

It was already nine in the morning the sun was climbing and slowly warming the air as we left the hunter and went in search of other game.

We had been out since 6.30am, starting off from the boma at Tanda Tula Game Reserve situated in the Timbavati area, just outside the Kruger National Park.

The previous extremely chilly morning I had joined a small group of visitors on a walking trail through part of the park guided by Foreman, one of the most experienced guides and trackers at the reserve.

We had driven a short distance from camp to a spot chosen by Foreman because he had been alerted that the game was moving into the area.

However, just as we were about to alight from the vehicle a huge male lion, one of the three dominating the reserve, strode up the road in pursuit of a small herd of impala.

Earlier in the morning we had been awoken by the three males growling away in the west. It was amazing how far he had wandered in the few hours before sunrise.

We sat dead still as he slinked past us marked a few trees on the way then totally ignored the impala who, by this time, were grunting their warning to all the other animals in the herd.

With the lion safely past us, we proceeded to walk the trail Foreman had selected.

We stopped on a game path and he pointed out the footprints of a hyena. He took time explaining in detail what he saw and how one can interpret the direction of travel, the time it was in the area and how fast it was moving.

The visitors could not be anything else but impressed with the interpretation of what looked like a few markings in the sand.

He then pointed out antlion nests and easily had the group eating out of his hand while he ran through the small five: Antlion, leopard tortoise, rhino beetle, red-billed buffalo weaver and elephant shrew.

We walked and tracked for a little more than three hours and were lucky enough to have a really close encounter with five white rhino.

We spotted the large male who, like a giant four-ton vacuum cleaner, had his nose to the ground sniffing vigorously. Foreman explained that he had most probably become separated from the crowd and was following the group's scent.

We followed at a safe distance and finally reached the group of rhino comprising three young males and a female.

As the old bull approached, we witnessed a stand-off as the young males challenged him. After plenty of grunting, reversing into a charge position, kicking up dust then backing off, eventually the older male was accepted.

Bird sightings and identification, as well as the naming of all the plants and trees we passed, were quickly rattled off and explained.

The group was fascinated when introduced to the magic guarrie tree. It is believed it can be used for water divining and when the end of a thin branch is chewed can be used as an excellent toothbrush. If you are lucky enough to make a fire using wood from a leadwood tree then the ash makes excellent toothpaste. The scented thorn acacia yields really fine toothpicks.

Four hours later we arrived on the banks of the river and carefully tucked away was the breakfast kitchen.

Here, among a bunch of mischievous monkeys, visitors get to grips with a real bush breakfast. It gave the overseas visitors the chance after their first real experience tracking in the bush among the Big Five to enjoy the wild with the luxury of a sit-down meal.

The afternoon game drive gave the visitors a further look at what the area offers with a sighting of what must be a world-record kudu bull. He looked like a miniature giraffe and was easily browsing the top leaves of an acacia. His dewlap was huge.

As night approached and the sun dipped below the horizon, we all got a chance to view the nocturnal animals, including an African wildcat.

Dinner out in the open around a huge fire inside the boma definitely impresses most overseas visitors and the ones on this safari were most complimentary because the cook prepared warthog steaks.

Tanda Tula is situated more or less at the centre point of the Kruger between north and south, recognised as the Timbavati area. Timbavati has always been well recognised for the discovery of white lions.

Not only has the reserve been in existence for many years, but so have many of the staff, and we met several guides and staff who have all been there for at least 20 to 30 years.

Now that the fences on the boundaries of the Kruger National Park are coming down, the animals can move freely into other areas. Tanda Tula and other private reserves on the borders of the Kruger are now essentially part of the famous park. It is also one of the reserves supporting a transboundary project called Save the Elephants.

The important issues that are being addressed are the restoration of elephant migration routes, especially now that fences are being dismantled in an attempt to seek a solution for the co-existence of elephants, trees and people.

It is difficult to protect elephants, as I witnessed in Botswana, when a herd of elephants in one night destroyed the total mealie crop for one village. Yet on the other hand, elephants attract tourists and tourists add greatly to the economy of a country.

While I was at the reserve, members of the Save the Elephants were busy collaring an elephant in Tanzania, which will allow them to track yet another herd in order to learn more about their chosen areas of migration.

One interesting fact was that in the Kruger there appears to be an invisible boundary splitting the reserve in half and the herds in the one half do not venture into the other half.

Another interesting experiment under way is working with methods of alleviating elephant tree damage.

Rising despite the odds: Foreman Mathebula

Foreman Mathebula was forced, through family circumstances, to leave school at a very early age to help support his family.

Today Foreman is one of the leading guides and trackers at Tanda Tula Safari Camp.

After spending two days in his company and having walked and tracked for several hours in the reserve while learning about the plants, insects, birds and animals you can sense his passion for the bush.

He says he sees himself as a guest when leading a group either on a walking safari or when taking them on the morning or evening game drive.

This is quite evident because he makes every minute count and keeps the audience captivated and asking constant questions.

Foreman is a man of many parts and has had to turn his hand to many tasks, including working as a maintenance man like his father, then trying his hand at being an electrician before heading for the big city to make music with a band in Hillbrow. He plays keyboard and guitar and has produced two CDs.

One day he came out of the block he was staying in to witness a person being shot and moved immediately into an informal settlement in Roodeport.

But his passion for the bush saw him move back to Klaserie close to Kruger where he had originally been taught to track by his father.

He then completed a basic ranger's course and, by the end of 1998, was a game guide and then a driver and guide.

In 2002 he was promoted to head ranger and worked with Don and Nina, the present owners of Tanda Tula.

He says, "As a manager at Umlani camp I found it challenging to be working with staff under me but it was a great learning curve."

Still striving to get into business on his own he then branched out into the building trade before joining Nina and Don and again doing what he enjoys best: guiding, tracking and interacting with guests.

Adviser

Tanda Tula: See www.tandatula.co.za or email reservations@uitsig.co.za

Closest town and airport: Hoedspruit, serviced by SAA Airlink daily from OR Tambo