On October 13th a piece appeared on IOL entitled Cape Town, you can keep your mountain.
In it, the writer launched into a critique of Cape Town (versus Durban) and raised a virtual tsunami of irate reader responses. I can't imagine the writer actually meant to offend, more likely to amuse. But people are clearly sensitive about their hometown; and in the run-up to 2010, the general consensus seems to be that we don't need any Brits, Yanks, Finns etc reading negative comments about South Africa, written by South Africans. It's important to say nice things only, so they all come here with their holiday pocket money next year.
It would probably not behove* me, then - here on top of my majestic, world famous Table Mountain - to sink to the level of a silly tit-for-tat retort in defence of the Mother City.
Yet as someone who 'semigrated' from Durban to the Cape three years ago, perhaps I can simply outline why I love with this place - and why I haven't missed dear old Durbs for a minute.
I lived in Durban for a decade, give or take. Or so says my diary. Unfortunately I myself can't remember most of it, so it's quite lucky I kept the diary. All I really remember is being 22 and full of beans, arriving for the first time at Morningside's artiest bar. Then suddenly I was 32 and full of tequila, gazing at my receding hairline in one of the ornate mirrors. I became beset by a horrible vision, of being 42, 67… Clint Eastwood-aged… and still sitting in the same bar, getting older next to the same regulars, in the same old never-changing city.
In a panic, I fell off my bar stool, sprinted home erratically and told my wife we were moving to San Francisco in seven minutes. We checked on our savings and decided to opt for San Fran Lite instead - Cape Town. It's pretty much as nice as San Fran, and it was cheaper for us to move to.
That night, as I inhaled mozzies, fended off ghost geckos, dripped sweat and envisioned the N2 unfurling away into our Atlantic-moistened future, the despairing cry of a drinking hole regular from earlier that evening echoed in my ears…
"But wait!" he had cried as I had barged my way out, between pretend-hippies, trend forecasters and graphic designers, "Durban's about to explode… plode… ode…"
Not blow up, obviously. Obviously. The inebriated sage simply meant that Durban was, through his beer goggles, obviously on the cusp of massive growth, world city status, a new phase of dynamism - maybe even a new, African-born Renaissance movement!
Trouble was, I had been hearing this for a decade by the time we left. Durban doesn't change much; it just is. The roads might get confusing new names; one restaurant may close while another opens (the Debbin crowd is notoriously fickle), Indian Mynahs are born, learn to talk and die laughing - but not much else happens by the slow, lukewarm sea. Nothing happens at all. The needle returns to the start of the song, and we all sing along like before… Sorry. Drifted into a Del Amitri fugue state there. How about Morrissey on Durban, then: Every day is like Sunday… every day is silent and grey… (certainly in September, it is).
All right, look, I promised not to try and "get Durban back" here. Can I tell you something? We probably automatically criticise the places we once lived in, because it helps heal the secret, little "I miss it" ache inside. For example, relatives of mine who moved to London can't stop being smug about it and dissing Africa all the time, over their ebony hand-carved Zambian table with Zulu bead tablecloth. But I know - I know - they miss the rains down in Africa.
And Durban was good to me, I admit. It gave me lasting friends (who I'm now trying to lure to Cape Town); my beautiful wife, and a tendency to say "fush" (fish), "laak" (like) and "God, I wish they would ban those bloody fireworks."
And Durban boasts scenery just as dramatic and starkly beautiful as the Cape's. There's the towering cream monolith of the Pavilion, with thousands of souped up, tinted-window cars twinkling charmingly in its sun-melted parking lots. There's that Christmassy casino on Battery Beach (probably visible from the moon). Or who can overlook Windermere Centre, that large brown tribute to 70s architecture that so winsomely blocks the sea view for everyone from Morningside to Kokstad? And look! Durbanites even have that… hill thingy. The Bluff? The Buff? Not tabular, nor mountainous - but it's something.
Each to their own, hey. A friend of mine recently moved to Durban and says she "smaaks" it (likes it. Laaks it). I moved to Cape Town and started saying Hout Ba-ay. You can't really compare places. Well you can, but it will probably end in tears and hair-pulling. However - and this must be mentioned - don't you get tired of people saying that Cape Town is "not African enough"? What an inane comment. We're very African. We probably have many, many more Kenyans, Malawians and Zimbabweans than Durban does, for one thing.
And we have Mzoli's. Cape Town is a heaving calabash of pan-African dynamism. Once I even saw Helen Zille toyi-toying somewhere, in the run-up to the elections (we love Helen here. She keeps our city clean and our libraries natty. Whereas, last time I checked, Durban needed a shower and a shave and only half of the traffic lights worked).
eThekwini Online says that 68% of Durban's population are black African, with the rest being made up of Asian (20%), white (9%) and coloured (3%). Meanwhile, a 2001 census showed that in Cape Town, the coloured community formed the majority, at 53.91%. So… when people complain that Cape Town is not "African enough" are they proposing that coloured South Africans are "not African enough"? Unlike some of this land's many tribes (black, white or blue), coloured people never colonised South Africa from afar, nor did they migrate into the area from elsewhere in southern Africa. Having arisen right here out of this land, they may very well be, along with the San people, the most accurately African - and South African - of us all.
But I'm no anthropologist. I don't even know one.
Another thing: it's a really obvious ploy to lambaste Capetonians for having Table Mountain, as if we put it here and can't stop staring at it. Look, it's not our fault that "Table Mountain is among the final 28 sites competing for a spot in the New 7 Wonders of Nature" (see story here.
I may be wrong, but I don't think I saw North Beach on there. We actually have hundreds of mountains in Cape Town, anyway. Would you like one, Durban? We'll even throw in a wine farm or two, on its glossy slopes. Or are you happy with le Buff? And your cute little sharks, as opposed to our awe-inspiring great whites? Want one of our oceans, perhaps? We've got two, so help yourself.
Oh! That reminds me. Must remember to lobby the DA again, re my big plan to dynamite the Cape Peninsula entirely away from the mainland. Genius. Being an island has worked very well for Mauritius. And if us Kaapenaars are to be constantly viewed as being stubbornly insular, ignorant and non-African, maybe we should make it literally so, and simply paddle the whole of the Cape metropole over the Atlantic to Brazil. Like us, those chaps enjoy a good beach party. We'll fit right in, there. You'll miss us, Durban – and our Mountain! We'll also take with us our distinguished history, unique fynbos, cultural festivals, road manners (except the taxis), Kirstenbosch concerts, Minki van der Westhuizen and Greyton (the Cape's best little town).
Look, there's no need to take any of this "my city is better than your city" nonsense too seriously. I'm just poking a little fun at Dirtbin (feels like poking a bee hive with a protea branch). I embraced that sweaty city for a whole decade, so there must have been a reason. Probably the bacon rolls at Saturday morning's Essenwood Flea market.
I hope a tsunami of irate responses from Durban readers won't rain on my Kaapse Klopse parade now. Probably too late. Maybe it will rain fush instead.
* Love that word
Reader responses
I work for a large company with branches based in all three villages and it beseems* me that nothing comes close to the "efficiency" (or monetary wealth) of Jozi… my CPT colleagues all seem to lack something : je ne sait quoi – oh yes ! Efficiency and common sense and being able to identify that there IS life and a vast universe outside of the Republic of CPT
… and as for my DBN colleages, well, I try really hard not to put my clock back 6 hours to be able to be in their general frame of reference !
When our CPT colleagues come to visit, we make sure to point their desks and chairs facing Northcliff Hill so that they’re not too homesick… and as for my DBN friends, there’s one glimmer of hope : I once heard an Ozzie saying that he thought Durbanites were workaholics !!!
(*love THAT word)
Sobs - a proud South African !
And when Durbanites talk about Cape Town, it is often the wind, the rain, the cold, traffic, bla-bla-bla. But the last time I checked, statistics indicated that Durbanites were queuing up bumper to bumper (proverbially) on the N1 in a Treck to settle down in the Fairest Cape. And may we say, a hearty welcome to them all!
But there is something else that we simple minded Capies have noticed about Durbanites. After settling down in the Cape - after a good few years - they start getting over themselves and begin to chill and before you know it, their nice side begins to surface. And they really are a nice bunch - the Durbanites … - Dirk Short
Are they not all South Africans, and is it not, one very beautiful country.
Yes, Durban needs a major clean up and does not have a mountain (just look a little further though in the suburbs as you reach the heart of Zululand), and certainly CT has a mountain, not to mention the great wines and winelands to go with it. Durban has a larger variety of wildlife to offer the international tourist than CT does, BOTH cities have so much to offer, really, what a pity citizens of both don't think of themselves as South Africans first and welcome the international tourist to their respective cities with the attitude that SA has loads to show, please stay and see more (DBN, JHB, CT, Garden Route, God's Window, (list is endless) etc.).
I write this as an ex-Durbanite, (who spent most of my childhood holidays in Knysna and Plett. which, in my mind are the most beautiful areas on the Planet) and an ex Satour Tour Guide for KwaZulu/Natal. Please, promote your country as one, it is truly a world in one country and not worth an argument between two cities.
Regards, Daniela
Gosh, I saw that new TWO OCEANS TV ad and was pretty convinced that, if you were to nip down to Cape Point, you would indeed behold the Indian at the Atlantic smashing stormily together.
No, really my understanding is that the actual meeting point of the two oceans varies at any given time, between Cape Aghulas and as far as Cape Point - a distance of some 100km - depending on the vagaries of ocean currents. The meeting point is just 'more often' towards Agulhas: "the dividing line between the warm and cold waters is more often at Cape Agulhas than anywhere else ... However, because of the effect of the south-easterly and north-westerly winds, the warm current can on occasion drift even as far as Cape Point." www.southafrica.info. So Cape Point is more just a 'symbolic meeting point'.
Maybe we should move on from the COMPARISONS soon - no one wins - and simply find out what people LIKE about their home town - be it Jozi, Slummies, Richards Bay or Saldanha...





