Stepping back into Zimbabwe recently was full of pleasant surprises. There is no denying that all spheres of Zimbabwe life have suffered at the hands of Robert Mugabe. Tourism has not escaped unscathed and the country's numerous national parks, hotels and towns have not seen significant infrastructure development in years.
Yet despite the economic, political and human strife that has had Zimbabwe in the news for all the wrong reasons, there are flickers of hope.
The natural splendour is still found in abundance and on a recent visit the shops were well-stocked and fuel was readily available.
Having grown up in Zimbabwe, I was intrigued to see how Victoria Falls and Hwange National Park in particular matched up to the memories of my carefree days dodging elephants or drifting down the Zambezi River in a canoe.
Arriving on a morning flight from Johannesburg, Victoria Falls Airport looked tired but customs was friendly and stamped us through in no time.
Driving into town, there were no picketing "war veterans" - just people trying to get on with their lives and friendly waves from kids as we whizzed past. The town was just as I recall, although it, too, looked like it had seen better days.
Thankfully, Ilala Lodge, where we were staying, was remarkably well kept.
From this pretty boutique hotel the spray of the Falls was clearly visible, warthog grazed on the lawns and birdlife is prolific, including Bradfield's Hornbill. Ilala has an ambience and décor that takes you back in time to the days of early explorers and ancient tribes that roamed this area.
During our visit, the Zambezi River was in full spate and the Falls was living up to its reputation as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Raging torrents of water plunged into the basalt chasm 103m below.
As we wandered along trails through the rain forest adjoining the Falls it was hard not to enthralled by the mighty "Smoke That Thunders". In some parts the spray rained down on us, in others you could just sit quietly and take it all in.
Our idea of an adrenaline-loaded activity was bartering at the local craft market but the town has many other adventure options. Other than the renowned river rafting there is parasailing, jetboating, gorge swinging, helicopter flights, bungi jumping and lion walks - enough to even keep the Kingsley Holgates of the world entertained. If this is too much, try a round of golf at the Elephant Hills Golf Course, a river sundowner cruise, or a croc farm tour with the kids.
Following some busy days enjoying the Falls and surrounds we hopped on a small charter plane to Hwange National Park.
After a fun flight we touched down at "Hwange International" - a gravel landing strip in a remote, expansive grassy plain dotted with grazing buffalo and foraging roan. The serenity of it all was an instant stress reliever.
Hwange was a wonderful sight.
We were greeted by clear-blue skies, not a breath of wind and the infectious laughter and beaming smiles of guides Lewis Mangava and Douglas Muyambo based at the recently opened Davison's Camp.
The wide plains were swathed in golden-yellow grass while the teak and false mopane forests had taken on hues in pretty colours of orange, red and green. Manager Tendai Mdluli drove us to camp. Tendai oozed charisma and over our stay I found him to be a wonderful host, first-class guide and passionate naturalist - totally nuts about the bush.
En route I had one of my best rhino encounters - ever. I was here on a photographic assignment to photograph Hwange's reintroduced white rhino, "preferably with a safari vehicle in context". I love these obscure production briefs. An adult rhino bull was found - nervously making its way to a waterhole for a mud bath and drink.
"If we wait, he should walk right past us," Tendai whispered.
All was going to plan until another guest moved on the vehicle, startling the rhino and making him change direction.
Tendai (luckily a qualified walking guide) grabbed his .458 rifle and said, "Let's walk round on foot to get the photo."
Not your typical guest experience, but hey, what the heck.
So off we went, positioning ourselves on the other side of the water hole getting the required shots easily. The rhino, however, continued walking straight towards us and, being short-sighted, couldn't see us and kept on coming.
Now, within a couple of metres of us behind some dead brush, he sniffed inquisitively at these two odd shapes. My heart was racing and adrenaline was pumping.
"This is it," I thought, wondering if I should say a prayer.
Unable to stand the tension any more, Tendai eventually clapped his hands, by so doing startling the prehistoric creature that ran off rather timidly.
Quietly walking back to the vehicles filled with wide-eyed tourists, we had inadvertently become the viewing subjects.
One guest, Chuck I seem to recall, chirped in typical Yankee drawl, "Remember, the camp does not do smalls!"
Hostess Angeline Mhlanga welcomed us at camp among dancing staff and welcome drinks so typical of safari camps these days.
What stood out, though, was the genuineness of it all - they were truly happy to see us. Davison's Camp is located in the remote Linkwasha Concession with the tents placed under a grove of false mopane trees.
The camp is named after Ted Davison, the founder warden who cleverly devised the system of water holes for which the park is so unique.
The Hwange Game Reserve was created in 1928 and today comprises 14 650 km178, one of the biggest parks in southern Africa. Hwange is currently celebrating its 60th anniversary as a national park, a significant milestone indeed!
What truly sets Hwange apart is the dry-season game viewing and loads of elephant - around 30 000 of them. The water holes in the park were hives of activity frequented by a constant parade of elephant, buffalo, sable, birds, baboons, giraffe and zebra. Such a waterhole is right in front of Davison's: one afternoon, while taking in the expansive vista from my tent veranda, an elephant herd of more than 50 arrived, providing entertainment for more than half an hour.
The wildlife sightings on the Ngamo Plains were also just as I remembered - large herds of eland, wildebeest, elephant and giraffe all dotting the landscape. What was different, though, due to the exclusive concession, was the distinct lack of other safari vehicles all vying for the best viewing position. The grassy plains adjoining Scott's Pan were just as pretty.
While sitting quietly, simply soaking in the scene, we noticed a troop of baboons moving towards the pan. If you have ever watched a feeding party of baboons, you'll know they seem to move like a sort of rag-tag military unit.
One female noticed a lone water lily in the pond, and suddenly darted into the water to retrieve it.
Grabbing the lily in her mouth, she acrobatically dashed for shore again. It was hilarious to watch.
Nearby a lion pride watched with disdain and bat-eared foxes looked on disbelievingly with their ET-like ears.
From Davison's we headed over to Somalisa Camp for the last two nights. Tastefully hidden on an acacia island overlooking Kennedy Vlei, the elegant tents and main area also qualifies as a true bush camp - I loved it.
There is a certain thrill in sleeping under canvas - night sounds are almost amplified, sounding nearer than they really are and, when that lion roars, you just snuggle closer to your better half.
The plunge pool is a hit too - with elephants, that is.
In winter, elephants drink right from the pool and come very close, even if you happen to be sitting there.
I am glad to report that Hwange is still crammed with loads of game. What I will remember most is the people though - a nation that has endured so much. As a kid I always fought back tears when returning to boarding school in South Africa. Saying our farewells back at the airstrip, and leaving Hwange, had the same effect.
I boarded the charter plane with a lump in my throat. Here were people that had become good friends, trying to make the best of what has been a chaotic chapter in Zimbabwe's history.
Taking a holiday in Zim is definitely on, even without my memories, particularly in the light of some appealing deals as the country and the global economy hobble on the road to recovery.
Hwange: www.safariadventure company. com
