Snow flurries swirl across the road and into my eyes and the camera lens as I try to record the wild magnificence of the lake and mountains before us.

It's bitingly cold, so it will only be a short period that we're out with our cameras before we scuttle back into the warmth of the car.

The craggy peaks are shrouded in thick snow and ice-laden cloud, and sleet slashes the waters of the lake. It's a forbiddingly beautiful place this, the Snowdonia National Park in northern Wales.

And, as I sit, thawing out in the car, I am struck, once again, by the space and wildness of Europe.

Why should this be odd? Well, because all of my life, having been born in Africa - and having seen then endless horizons of this continent - I had arrogantly assumed that Europe, with its teeming millions of people and limited space, was crowded and over-civilised.

When we in Africa want to put European things in perspective, we always compare them to our alleged vastness: Wales may be the size of the Free State, Kruger National Park may be bigger than Belgium. And we assume that we, because of our size, have cornered the market on wild and lonesome.

Spend some time in northern Wales and that chauvinistic perspective quickly evaporates.

Snowdonia National Park takes its name from Snowdon, the highest mountain in the British Isles.

By our standards, its 1 065m height seems puny, but in the depths of one of the angriest winters in the past three decades (when we visited), the mountain and its associated peaks and hills are anything but insignificant.

Further to the south are the Brecon Beacons, the tough, inhospitable high country where the British SAS puts its recruits through the toughest of field tests before it awards them its coveted operator wings.

When we pass through Brecon and head north to Snowdonia, it is not difficult to imagine a balaclavaed SAS soldier ghosting his way through the countryside, relying on his wits and fitness to survive and outwit his instructors.

The village of Betws-y-Coed (pronounced betiss-ee-coid) lies in the heart of Snowdonia and has an old, 19th century charm about it: stone houses and narrow stone bridges, twisty streets and cosy fireplaces inside welcoming pubs.

When we last passed through Betws-y-Coed, more than 20 years ago, it was also in the depths of winter and the town was more than sleepy, it was morgue-like.

There were few people on the streets and those who were didn't seem like tourists.

Today, things are different, because Wales is definitely no longer a well-kept tourism secret.

The plentiful physical attractions and historical interest to say nothing of the adventure sport opportunities right across Wales mean that it is attracting visitors as it never did two decades ago.

In Betws-y-Coed centre there is a thriving craft market and set of shops alongside the restored railway station; there are dozens of hotels and B and Bs (whatever your budget, you'll find something here) and a number of good places to eat.

The town is a great place to base up and sally forth to explore the northern reaches of Wales - and there is plenty on offer.

Many tourists these days are adventure seekers: hiking, biking, paddling and watersports have taken off in recent years. And there can be few places as beautiful in which to get out, get fit and enjoy nature.

But, if you're less energetic, driving the twisty yet excellent roads will take you to stunning mountains, empty beaches, lakes and forests.

And there are a number of small railways which offer memorable trips in a style from a bygone era.

Worth a visit on its own is the island of Anglesey, which is linked to the mainland by two bridges across the Menai Strait. Its sandy beaches are said to be home to some of Europe's best mussels and there are a number of restaurants which can hold their heads high in any culinary company.

We found the Welsh people to be welcoming and down-to-earth and the standards of service were generally something they could export to the South African hospitality industry...

Regrets about Wales? Yes.

We didn't stay long enough.

Our three days were enough merely to give us a taste of what the country has to offer.

Even as we were driving through the sleet in the direction of Holyhead to catch a ferry to Dublin, we agreed: we should have stayed longer.

And when you say that about a place, you know you'll be back...

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If you go...

Stay for at least a week. There is so much to do you'll short-change yourself if you don't. Everything - from the scenery to the accommodation to the history - is the equal of anything in Britain.

Summers can be hot - but wet. Winters can be bitter and in the recent cold snap which hit the UK, a number of Welsh roads were affected by partial closures. Summer is tourist time, but even in winter, UK travellers have made Wales one of their favourite destinations. Whatever the time of year, check that it doesn't include public holidays or school vacation periods in the UK.

Public transport is adequate for getting to and from major towns, but it will pay you to hire a car if you really want to get the most out of the experience.

Wales is slightly cheaper than England in most cases, but it does pay to shop around for good accommodation, because there are often specials available.

Self-catering is becoming an increasingly-popular option, although be warned as these establishments in the UK tend to take bookings only for units of a week.

There are a host of hotels B and Bs, guest houses and farms. Many of them are on the Internet - but again, that is next to useless for a South African, because many of them are unable to accept deposits or payments via credit card or electronic transfer.

Do your research on these two excellent tourism authority websites - www.visitwales.co.uk or www.visitbritain.org