Namibia's Erongo Mountains leave me mesmerised every time. The setting is dramatic: mammoth granite domes, piles of perfectly rounded rocks that look like oversized pebbles, hidden valleys and incredible vistas.
Then there is this soothing ambience about the place, perfect for the ultimate relaxation and meditation. I am sure even Buddhist monks would approve.
Whichever way you approach these mountains, their calming presence looms in the distance. They certainly beckoned us invitingly.
The blue outline of Erongo gradually rose out of the surrounding flatness, growing bigger as we drew closer. Perhaps this pull is due to some primeval instinct that mountains mean refuge, protection and food - an oasis of sorts.
The word Erongo rolls off the tongue evocatively and means "big mountain" in Herero.
The open Namibian landscape is regularly interspersed with inselbergs like Erongo: exposed ancient formations that once spewed lava and ashes, now mere remnants of some of the oldest volcanic activity on the planet.
Over millennia this specific volcanic ruin at Erongo has evolved into a mountain range of great beauty and even greater biodiversity.
Today Erongo is a mere remnant of a once huge volcano, active for more than 20 million years, that towered 3 000m. The volcano then collapsed, forming a massive caldera surrounded by sheer cliffs.
Over time the softer soils washed away, exposing the reddish beauty of Erongo granite. Wind erosion then formed the spherical boulders that are scattered everywhere, looking as if this was once a playground for giants.
The smooth red mountainsides are now surrounded by lush plant growth fed by run-off from the mountains.
A locale of such unspoilt beauty must be hard to get to, right?
Luckily, it could not be easier. After a leisurely drive from Windhoek, you turn off on to a gravel district road (in better condition than many of our South African tarred roads) just before the town of Omaruru. Just after you enter the eastern gate of the Erongo Conservancy, a sign for Erongo Wilderness Lodge indicates the spot where we had to leave our vehicle for the next few days.
The lodge's new Land Rover was waiting to take us on the last leg to this hideaway. With the vehicle gently purring in low range, we ascended a sheer rock face with incredible ease and meandered on a sandy track with gigantic round boulders on each side before entering a secluded valley, with the camp ingeniously poised aside and atop this mountainous landscape. Eerie calls of rock hyrax resounded from the hills and noisy flocks of pretty Rosy-faced Lovebirds whizzed past us.
It was late afternoon and we were just in time for our first taste of the breathless beauty of Erongo.
After a camp briefing, with our luggage taken away to our tent, we set off on a short (albeit steep) walk to a nearby mountaintop for the most incredible sunset overlooking the flat plains beyond (and the obligatory gin and tonic of course).
An Augur Buzzard hovered effortlessly almost at eye level and on the adjoining mountainside a troop of baboons was settling in for the night, their barks and screeches echoing across the valley.
Erongo Wilderness Lodge boasts an intuitive camp design, the comfortable tents cleverly merging with the granite surroundings and interconnected with walkways to the elevated, partially open main area where delicious home-cooked meals are served.
A swimming pool and deck continue the overriding theme of relaxation and, thankfully, the crocodile lying at the bottom is not real.
The 200 000ha Erongo Mountain Nature Conservancy encompasses farms and lodges on which 27 land owners have dropped their fences with the aim of improved conservation of this special area and its wildlife.
In 2008, a viable group of endangered hook-lipped (black) rhino was reintroduced here too, but all we asked were rather tight-lipped (pardon the pun) as to exact numbers.
The Erongo Mountains are perfect for those fond of walking. We undertook several long nature strolls along the self-guided walking trails. This was the best way to discover the natural wonders of this region.
We learnt that Erongo is a key Namibian birding destination, home to many endemics. We bumped into a particular British couple clambering among boulders several times, searching for Hartlaub's francolin among the other specials.
They did not find them, but we had to have a quiet chuckle when a covey of these shy birds was found quietly foraging around our tent.
The other specials include rockrunner, whose evocative liquid call is a common sound here, the bizarre white-tailed shrike and Monteiro's hornbill.
One afternoon nature drive included a visit to Paula's Cave - a place that offered shelter and spiritual significance for the early Bushmen of the area.
The myriad paintings they left behind for later generations are some of the most significant in Namibia and give wonderful insight into their way of life.
Erongo is not a big game destination, although we did enjoy some interesting sightings, klipspringer, Hartmann's mountain zebra and kudu all being fond memories.
When at Erongo, it is hard not to be captivated by the little rock hyrax (dassies) that are everywhere, sunning themselves, feeding in the small trees or scolding in alarm as you pass.
Some young kids just could not get enough of their antics.
With a bit of luck you could spot the recently described black mongoose and possibly even a caracal - we saw both.
Dinner entertainment at the main area could include a gate-crashing porcupine looking for vegetable scraps from the kitchen.
Strolling back to our tent under the most amazing night sky, we came across an African wild cat which, unperturbed by us, was hunting insects at a light.
Magnificent chestnut trees were illuminated by the moonlight and freckled nightjars swooped around us. After enjoying a hot shower enveloped by natural stone and trees, I contentedly fell asleep in no time.
The nearby town of Omaruru is full of quirky art and craft shops and another outing could include visiting Namibia's only wine producer. We were happy just to laze around Erongo though.
I have visited this hidden, yet remarkably accessible, setting numerous times in recent years, but never tire at Erongo's scenic grandeur and peculiar wildlife.
Due to the nature of my work, and since travel is my passion, I have a mental "bucket list" of places to which I would like to return and show my wife. The Erongo Mountains is definitely one of them.
If you go...
- The Erongo Mountains is a leisurely three-hour drive from the capital city, Windhoek, on good tar roads, just outside the quaint little town of Omaruru. This is a great spot to spend a few days if you are already in Windhoek for business and certainly a not-to-miss stop on a longer road trip through Namibia.
- Email: info@ErongoWilderness-Namibia.com
- Web: www.ErongoWilderness-Namibia.com
